Post Collapse: Community vs. Communism

If Jim Rawles allowed comments at his popular Survival Blog, the post, Community Crisis Planning for Societal Collapse, by J.I.R., would probably be over 1,000 by now.

J.I.R. starts out with a no nonsense look at how communities will function should an American collapse occur past the short-term. The need to establish rule of law, stockpile resources, and ensure critical functions are completed.

But the talk of confiscating resources hit a lot of raw nerves and rightly so. I’ll hit a few representative high points – the things that really get under my skin – and try to keep it in context;

If you let private citizens keep their food and fuel and other scarce resources and only confiscate and control corporate or “large retail or wholesale stocks” …

“If you let” citizens keep their property? Next is the delineation between private citizens resources and store owners things, though the “initially” is troubling:

You have to be careful which resources you initially confiscate and only gather large retail or wholesale stocks meant for re-sale. Anything owned by an individual for his own use is his property and must not be touched. Any critical and scarce commodity owned strictly for resale should be confiscated for the common good and held by the community. Make sure you provide a receipt to any owners you can locate or at least keep records of what is taken.

Needing to establish some sort of community stockpile is of course what would be needed long-term, but “ownership” still does exist and there is no point to pretending otherwise:

One of these choices might be to confiscate corporate property and redistribute it as needed for the common good. That specifically includes local merchants who hold stockpiles of needed resources meant for resale, such as gas station and grocery store owners. The whole retail system with [its] complex accounting and “ownership” laws are part of a finance system that no longer exists after a severe EMP event.

This next bit is actually bullshit – my brothers and I own land where we grew up and where we’d (try to) return to in the event of a collapse. We don’t live there, some of it is farmable, so we’re absentee landlords. It is not an “investment” in the finance sense, and anyone trying to take it, or those that did, would be on the receiving end of our hot lead:

Farmable land owned by a absentee landlord is easy; he’s not there and owns it only as an investment, therefore it now belongs to the community.

For this, all I have to say is, and “try it”:

You may also be forced to confiscate privately owned vehicles if yours are damaged or you need specialty vehicles (like fuel tankers, for instance). You need to work out a method of doing this without stealing. Any time you confiscate resources from any private citizen, you need to somehow reimburse them as fairly as possible. A better approach may be to exclusively hire them as the driver and let them retain ownership.

This next bit is fairly cheeky – confiscate these farmers’ property, but hire them to help with the process:

Co-ops and large commercial farms: These may have livestock and large amounts of feed grain and other dried foods on hand. … Seek them out and get their input and help to secure their food. You want to avoid spoilage and loss as much as possible and these people can help. Hire them.

J.I.R. has the right initial notion that communities will need to stockpile food/supplies, provide for rule of law and collective defense, but I think he sets precedents that prime the slippery slope of communism.

Readers of Survival Blog have responded and several letters have been published, and the author of the original article has responded a couple of times;

• Four Letters Re: Community Crisis Planning for Societal Collapse
• Six Letters Re: Community Crisis Planning for Societal Collapse
• Seven Letters Re: Community Crisis Planning for Societal Collapse

Not all disagree with J.I.R. (from the Six Letters);

I completely agree with J.I.R.: Long term, communities (a dirty word to radical individualists) must organize and work together. And so all of a sudden on a survivalist web site like yours, someone has gotten real and is talking about community, the dangers of anarchy, the rule of law, justice, the protection of the weak, and even redistribution of property. In other words, government, the very thing most survivalists demonize the most. This is unavoidable. No guns-based, hyper-individualistic strategy could ever work for long.

That’s why I’m a left-wing survivalist. To me, the key is cooperation and production. Though the old self-reliant American lifestyle was fading when I was a child in the 1950s, the infrastructure and social fabric that supported community-based self-reliance had not yet decayed.

Several replies mentioned the scenario from the excellent book, One Second After and that it was similar. Actually, it was different in the book in that a lot less was confiscated and things were more voluntary. There was a rationing system – you give your stockpile and you get a ration card, otherwise live on what you have. That’s better. But it was also a relatively small community.

Our “retreat” (the family farm, or perhaps “compound”) has enough land and water to grow substance crops for as many as we’ll allow on our property. There is also some game, but my guess is that if there is a real collapse, game will become thin pretty soon.

We plan on having enough for our family and close friends we plan on having here. Probably some won’t make it there (including me and my family), probably some we’d rather not have there will show up. Probably more than planned for, which is sort of figured into planning; it’ll be very hard.

My family, I’m sure, would not allow any land, vehicle, fuel, livestock, or other property to be confiscated. We’d be well armed, including scoped long-range rifles, and with a plan to defend. As J.I.R. notes (Six Letters);

Without some kind of redistribution of scarce resources and a working police department, nobody’s property is off limits. Most of the people in the community are going to be hungry very fast. Nobody just sits down and starves to death. They are going to attempt to find food or whatever their family needs. Hungry people loot.

That’s true. However, for most places, that will happen regardless. There will be too many people, not enough food. Period. And there is no way to help everyone, it just cannot be done (unless you have stored truly vast quantities of supplies, which is highly unlikely for most) without jeopardizing the lives of your own family or group.

Buying a Generator

Last winter the DC area was hit by a few snow storms that left tens of thousands without power for several days. From what I heard on news radio (WTOP 103.5 in the metro area), recent thunder storms have resulted in more days of lost power than the snow storms. Apparently blackouts are a growing problem in the U.S., with even “non-disaster related outages affecting at least 50,000 consumers” up 124 percent in the past two decades.

Although last winter’s blackouts didn’t affect my household, I’ve decided to invest in a generator in case we face an extended loss of power. I don’t see this as primarily for a TEOTWAWKI type event (i.e. total collapse), but more for localized disasters for short relatively short periods of time – days up to a couple of weeks. Anything beyond a couple of weeks and my guess is it’s nearing time to bug out.

There are a lot of different options to be aware of when searching for generators and what you need will depend on where you are and how you plan to use the generator:

• Purpose: Will it be a smaller portable unit, or a whole home installed generator? For running appliances directly, or charging batteries that power your home through an inverter?
• Capacity (wattage): What items will you need to power (at the same time) in your home, RV, or other location? Are the appliances you’ll need to use gas or electric?
• Fuel: Primary choices are gasoline, diesel, propane, and natural gas. What do you already have? What can you easily obtain and store?

I’ve decided on a portable option that will be able to power some lighting (high efficiency bulbs), communications (internet/phone), the fridge in warm weather, and a few small appliances at one time. Because we rent, I will not install a switchover box to power the entire home, which would also connect a lot more items that would be needed, putting more of a load on the generator.

Adding up the wattage of the items I’d normally want to power at one time comes to 1,500 watts or less. Occasionally I may want to run some devices that pull up to 2,000-2,500 watts. From what I’ve read, generators do better with a lower load, and even fuel consumptions list running times based on half capacity. So I need something at least in the 3,000-4,000 watt range.

I did consider planning for bare bones eclectically service – a few lights, and small appliances only – in the 1,000 watt or less range, but rejected this. For not much more money a lot more capacity can be had, and you can do a small job with a larger generator, but you can’t do a big job with a small one.

For fuel my options are gasoline and propane; diesel generators tend to be cost prohibitive, and I don’t know if my next location will have natural gas available. However, there are a lot more options for gasoline generators and (currently) gasoline is easier to obtain. If I want to use propane or natural gas later, there are tri-fuel conversion kits available.

I haven’t purchased one yet, but it’s on the short list. Reviews at Amazon.com have convinced me that I don’t want the cheapest one of a certain wattage, just not worth the hassle of oil/fuel leaks and other malfunctions. I’ve mostly been looking at Amazon, but recently found this site that has a good selection with similar prices and mostly free shipping.

If you’re considering alternative power sources, see this site for information on generators, another for bike powered devices, and a howto for converting a lawnmower engine into a small generator.

Review – Aguila Super Colibri .22 Subsonic Ammo

Most .22 long rifle (LR) ammunition is supersonic, which creates a loud crack as the bullet breaks the sound barrier and can result in scaring game or giving away your position.

Ammunition that travels at 1,080 feet per second (ft/s) or less is considered subsonic. Subsonic ammunition doesn’t break the sound barrier (about 1,126 ft/s normally, 1,088 ft/s at 32 degrees F) so there is no “crack.” There are a few varieties of subsonic ammunition:

These rounds are sometimes equipped with extra heavy bullets of 46–61 grain (2.9–3.9 gram) to improve the terminal ballistics of the slower projectile. Conversely, the rounds can contain little more than primer and an extra-light bullet.

Cheaper Than Dirt has a selection of subsonic .22 ammo, but as of this writing doesn’t carry the Aguila Super Colibri .22, 20 grain ammo I purchased there a few months ago. The Midland website notes:

These rounds are powered by the rimfire primer only. They must only be fired in handguns. If fired in rifles, the bullet may remain lodged in the barrel. Will not cycle the slide of semi-automatic handguns. Aguila packages these as Long Rifle ammunition, but they are in fact slightly shorter than a 22 Long cartridge.

That duly noted, I recently took this ammo to the range and fired it through both my Marlin Model 60 semi-auto .22 LR rifle, and through a .22 LR semi-auto pistol. Both fired the ammo just fine, but of course didn’t cycle.

When shooting through the rifle, I pulled the trigger and heard a “click” (had hearing protection on), and thought, “it didn’t fire.” It did, it’s just super quiet through a long rifle barrel. Probably it would be ideal for a bolt action rifle.

This ammo is probably best at 25-30 yards and less. For very close range this .22 subsonic ammo is recommended and I’m adding 50 rounds to my Bug out Bag (BoB). However, the next time I purchase any subsonic ammo I’ll probably go with a larger grain bullet and something closer to 1,000 ft/s in order to gain a little more power and distance.

Review – Tasco 3-9×32 .22 Riflescope

Recently I purchased a Tasco 3-9×32 scope for my Marlin Model 60 .22LR rifle. Designed specifically for .22 rifles, this is a good choice at a fair price in my opinion, though I’ve shot mostly with iron sights all my life so YMMV. Still, I found this easy to attach to my rifle and easy to sight in at the range. The fit and finish are very good, and it doesn’t feel fragile or cheaply made. It cost just under $50 at Optics Planet and had free shipping.

It looks simple to install but if you’ve never installed one, reading the instructions is suggested; the rings don’t tighten down all the way, but should have a small gap of equal width on either side. A small hex tool is included.

The field of view was fine and I liked the ¼” MOA windage/elevation adjustments. Getting it sighted in took about 30 shots, but I was taking a lot of extra shots rather than trying to get the job done fast.

The included rings are for dovetail grooves on .22 rifles and airrifles. At the same time I ordered the scope, I purchased some Tasco .22/airgun see-thru rings that are supposed to allow use of iron sights, which I prefer as a backup. However the Tasco see-thru rings don’t allow a view of iron sights on my Marlin Model 60 – surprising since it’s one of the most popular .22 rifles in the world. Rather than return them, I’ll file them down, but don’t buy them unless you’re aware you may have to modify them.

A word on scopes: Until recently I didn’t know much about scopes, but a little research fixed that. Before buying a scope you need to know some basic information. When looking at a scope description, such as 3-9×32 or 4×32, the first number represent the magnification power and the number to the right of the X is the diameter in millimeters (mm). If there is a single number before the X the power is fixed, otherwise the range is represented.

The higher the magnification the less area is visible in the field of view. The Tasco scope I purchased as a field of view of, 17.75′-6′ @100 yards. This means at the 3x power 17.75’ are viewable, while at the highest magnification of 9x only 6’ are. Higher magnifications also reduce the amount of light that gets through. Larger diameter scopes provided both a wider field of view at magnification, and allow more light through.

The Bug out Plan – a Work in Progress

As I’ve mentioned a few times, my family and I currently reside in Northern Virginia. Should TEOTWAWKI occur while we’re here, the plan is to bug out to my parents’ farm in rural Nebraska, along with my brothers and a few other family members or close friends. It’s not and ideal plan, but until we can move closer it’s the de facto plan.

Depending on the route, it’s about 1,300 miles, and as the map of population density by county depicts, the eastern half of the U.S. is very densely populated. If things are getting chaotic, detours could add a couple hundred more miles.

Probably a lot of people feel like they’re out in the boonies in some places in the eastern half of the U.S., but the reality is there are large population centers nearby in all directions (unless you’re on the coast – or in Maine). Most of the eastern U.S. would be a nightmare in a total collapse SHTF scenario – without our full-up, just-in-time delivery infrastructure and utilities, these urban and suburban areas will quickly disintegrate into chaos (WROL – without rule of law).

There are a lot of variables that go into a bug out plan and I don’t think it’s realistic to create dozens of detailed plans covering every conceivable scenario. Instead, I’ve focused on the main, essential areas: transportation (BoV, plans for going without); route planning (maps and GPS); and materials (food, firearms, radios, etc.).

The question of an EMP attack bothers me as there is conflicting information as to how dangerous they actually are. However, in my specific situation, I don’t think investing in a pre-1980s, EMP-proof vehicle would be prudent since having a working vehicle in an urban area makes you a great big target. Instead of blending in with the masses on foot or bicycles, it’s like shouting, “here I am!”

If there is an EMP and most vehicles work, great (power and comms likely would not). Or, if there is an EMP and most vehicles don’t work, we’ll have to deal with it; much less (little?) chance of survival in that scenario, depending on the time of year. But the way, I see it, bugging-in along the east coast as pretty much suicide, unless you’re prepared to kill a lot of innocents to survive, and probably resort to cannibalism (strictly speaking of a full TEOTWAWKI situating, of course). Better to bug out.

Bugging Out By Vehicle
Leaving in our Bug out Vehicle (BoV) is obviously preferred. If we could leave as things are getting strange but before they fall apart, well that would be ideal. And unlikely. So I’ve been studying back roads, alleys, and alternate routes in my local area so as to avoid the worst of the traffic crush should there be a mass exodus. Good local maps are a must for this, and as I travel to nearby counties I try to find maps there as well. A national road atlas is also a must.

I’ve already determined what I think I need in a BoV, and how I want to prepare it. I currently have a sufficient vehicle and a good backup. The main concern is fuel – I need more than I have here.

To get where I want to go, I’ll need approximately 90 gallons of gasoline (using 1,300 miles and my approximate gas mileage). If detours are significant and traffic jams many, call it 100+ gallons. My tank is about 25 gallons, so I’d need three good refills to make it.

I have a few cans of gas here, but not enough. Assuming some stations are open, my plan is to fill up as often as possible, buying and filling more cans along the way as possible. In case credit isn’t being accepted or the price of fuel skyrockets, I have a large stash of cash for just such an event. If I have to pay $50 a gallon, I’ll still get home. Having a large amount of cash on hand may be vital in the beginning stages of a collapse or other critical event.

The amount of time available to pack will determine the load. Again it’s obvious that more time is better. After thinking it through, I estimate can fully load the vehicle in about two hours, maybe a little less. (If time was critical, I’d need about five minutes to grab the BoB, food, water, and firearms.) In my case, that’s a truck. I have lockable toolbox for the most critical items, and a cardboard tri-wall container to put in the back and load up.

All items that have a long-term survival value will be taken with us; firearms, ammo, food/water, survival books, clothing, blankets, clothing, shoes, etc. These items will go along the sides of the tri-wall – if they need to be removed quickly, a box knife will help liberate them.

As part of my denial and deception campaign, for those who evaluate me as a target to attempt to loot, the last items to be loaded, and the most visible, will be frivolous; children’s toys, clothes in clear bags, perhaps a garden rake and water hose, etc. The goal is to look like an unworthy target to help avoid confrontation. Along that line, the BoB will be in the front seat of the cab, but covered with a children’s blanket, perhaps with a few toys visible.

If someone still wants to attempt to loot us, they’d find out what caliber is hidden underneath the baby blanket. I’d rather avoid confrontation, but will shoot first and ask questions later if threatened.

If there was some sort of terrorist event or large-scale disaster, natural or man-made, it may determine our route out of the DC area. For example, we may need to detour significantly north our south before proceeding west by northwest to Nebraska. Because of this, having a capable GPS with up-to-date maps is critical. Having a multi-band radio to get the most current information is also important.

Bugging Out On Foot
If we encounter a massive traffic jam that cannot be escaped, or if the truck breaks down and cannot be repaired, we’d have to continue on foot. If we can’t leave the DC area by BoV, we might have to do the entire trip on foot, perhaps on bicycles, but using a jogging stroller/bike trailer in any case. The stroller would carry our children and much of the supplies we’d take in this specific case.

My wife and I would still need to wear packs. And we would both be well armed. We have a hiking GPS, shortwave radio, and two-way GMRS/FRS radios in what I hope is a functioning Faraday cage.

Going on foot from the DC area to Nebraska would take two months or more in good times for a fit man unencumbered by two very small children. If we could make 10 miles a day, it would be over four months (more if winter was near). At five miles a day, nearly nine months. Chances of all four of us making it, very low. I don’t know how low and can’t assign a realistic percentage.

In general, the plan would be to navigate away from the most populated areas, seeking secondary roads, steering towards Nebraska the entire time. Monitoring the SW radio would be key for avoiding the most chaotic areas, blocked roads, etc. The GPS already has up-to-date road maps uploaded for all states we’d possibly transit. The BoB has a supply of batteries, but I’ll likely be adding more soon.

My BoB gear is really provisioned for the longer term with this scenario in mind, and we would have basic shelter. We would have weapons appropriate for both defense and hunting. If we had to stop for a few weeks or winter over someplace, we both have skills that might help us gain acceptance, especially my wife’s medical profession.

A Work in Progress
This is a basic plan that is always being fine tuned, and I’ve probably forgotten a few important details. New streets found, new maps added, gear being swapped out, and so on. When we eventually move, the plan will be greatly simplified by the much shorter distance we’d have to travel.

Even so, I’m always seeking gear (at a reasonable price) that will help with bugging out, adding maps, and thinking about what I’d need to do for different situations. Something to think about while at red lights.

Even if you live in your retreat, I think having a backup bug out plan is essential, so my brothers and I are also thinking about where we would go if our farm became an nonviable option.

As Ben Franklin said, “God helps those who help themselves” – being prepared to evacuate is the beginning.