DuraCoat is a hard polymer paint using a base and hardener (like epoxy) designed for painting firearms, including moving parts, barrels, etc. It dries to the touch after 20 minutes, can be used after curing to eight hours, but takes several weeks to fully cure to super hardness. It comes in dozens of colors & patterns, retains some flexibility so isn’t fragile, and is somewhat self-lubricating. By all accounts, it’s probably the hardest, most durable coating that can be had outside some factory finishes, and maybe better than some of those.
If you ever watch the Nutnfancy YouTube channel, you know he’s crazy about DuraCoat and has multiple videos on the subject. That’s where I first learned of the product.
DuraCoat is normally applied with an airbrush and requires an air compressor, which I don’t have and didn’t want to purchase for the few projects I might have for the paint – a few rifle stocks (not the guns, though), some magazines, and a few odds and ends. Probably a lot of others felt the same way, which is why the manufacture, Lauer Custom Weaponry, came up with the “Shake N Spray” kits.
The Good. I’m going to spend more time in the bad portion of this review, but DuraCoat is actually mostly pretty good. Most any color or pattern you’d want is available. The kit is relatively cheap and you don’t need an air compressor. The hardness and durability of DuraCoat is outstanding.
You can really dress up a beat-up weapon, stock, whatever. If you do use it on the action, barrel, etc., it acts as a rust inhibitor. For a nice .303 Enfield or M1 Garand? Probably not, but for modern carbines and “black guns,” absolutely. I will continue to purchase, use, and recommend this product.
The Bad. First, it’s difficult to determine what the colors actually are by looking at the photos on vendor websites. In the photos below, I have the samples from the website and the examples of items I’ve painted. The East German Green and TangoDown Flat Dark Earth look fairly close in the online samples of ARs, but the green is a shade darker while the flat dark earth is a shade or so lighter (compare the piece from a stock above and the magazine below – big difference).
Second, even though I followed the instructions to avoid having a shiny finish (even used more of the base to give a flatter appearance), my East German Green project came out shiny. I like the color, it’s actually almost exactly what I want, but it should be flat and not shiny. Others have noticed this (and here). I’ll have to get some clear matte to fix that as shiny defeats the purpose. A solution online said to use something to stir up the bottom in addition to shaking the bottle for the recommended time, which I’ll try next time.
Third and last, a lot of the advertisements claim you can coat two weapons with the kit (some say 2-4). Pistols, maybe, but my dark earth kit gave me three good coats on sever AR magazines, while the green one coated one rifle stock and foregrip – and that was it. Probably the spray applicator included with the kit isn’t’ as fine as an airbrush and uses more of the mixture.
OMG!!!
DIY Dura coat??!!
I can’t wait to get this stuff!!!
The reviewed “bads” seem pretty minor to me. I just want all my weapons to be earth tone in color, matching my region, period. East German Green sounds good to me.
BTW, just got back from two months in Libya, as a freelance military journalist. One of the many reasons I went was to experience a dress rehearsal, for when it “comes to a city near you,” here in the US. For everyone’s information, all the crybabies who keep crying about the US getting into another war is pure BS. I didn’t see any Americans there in an official capacity. Just lots of British military. And of course, they’re not teaching the rebels anything as much as how to stay alive on a battlefield.
Very interesting. I’m curious to know how well it wears – any instances of chipping or it rubbing off easier than you would expect?
That dark earth color looks very nice – the green is nice too but I’m with ya – would much rather have a flat finish.
Very nice review. I’d love to know how it holds up for you – any instances of chipping or it rubbing off very easily?
I really like that dark earth – the green is nice too but I’m with ya, would much rather see it in a matte finish.
You could not have picked a subject that would help me more. I have been seeing this in Shotgun News for some time, and thinking it would be excellent for a Browning HP I have that needs a new finish. I’m always nervous about taking the word of reviews in magazines, though, because they have a vested interest in talking up the product no matter how it really works. If they give a negative review, they get no more advertising. Your review told me everything I needed to know and now I can try it based on solid information.
Jerry,
The negatives are more annoyances, not that bad. I may try the OD Green next. The pic on DuraCoat websites looks too dark, but pics people post look a lot more like od green (Google: “duracoat od green” or whatever color, and select images). Stay safe over there if you go back. From what I can tell, it’d be hard to see the Americans there as they should be several thousand feet up!
bladereviews,
Just did the stock so not sure there. Did the magazines a few months ago and there is a little minor wear where they’re inserted into the mag well, not an issue. A few days ago I jammed a couple into a new mag pouch and then checked for scratches, they didn’t have any. DuraCoat does wear and scratch, just a lot less that most other finishes.
Arsenius,
Very glad to help. Probably good for a Hi-Power, depending on they type of holster. I was also nervous about trying it since it’s not exactly cheap to experiment with, but I guess like all preps it’s better to do it now while I have a job and the product is available.
A few useful links;
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_easy.html
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_additives.html
http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_faq.html
Duracoat does have tactical colors that are designed to have very little reflectivity … i.e. flat. I am probably going to Duracoat my Mini but will use an airbrush and compressor and will use one of their tactical colors. I looked into the kit you used but read a lot of reviews that had a negative impression of the aerosol sprayer and how inconsistent the spray was, i.e. it applied the duracoat too heavy or too light.
I recently used the shake & spray on my ar. I was very nervous about it looking at some reviews. I simply followed the instructions and my rifle came out beautiful. I thought the sprayer worked pretty well. I used very short strokes when painting. Just remember before trying to apply it to the part to spray a practice object because the paint needs time to crawl up the tube and mix with the propellent. Do the same thing between coats due to the fact the paint goes back down the tube into the jar. I had no runs or drips and it helps to have another object handy to test spray prior to your gun and this will give you an idea of paint flow and spread. Personally i loved it and will use it again if needed. I have alot of paint left over from the application and hope it will last in the jar for a while so I don’t have to waste it.
Ive done a few friends guns with the airbrush and compressor and this stuff is awesome. Both guns look better than new and the coats came out smooth and matte. Love this stuff
Your bright finishes are due to applying too thick a coat. I use this all the time and do not have this issue. You get the same issue with a can of spray paint on a piece of metal. It may say flat black but if you keep coating, it’s not flat anymore. This also explains why your material didn’t go as far as you felt it should. Less is more in this case.
Just did my shotgun with OD green. I’m not sure how it will hold up but it looks perfect. I used an aibrush. The 4 oz. bottle did my mossburg receiver, 18 inch barrel, 28″ barrel and a remington stainless model 7 stock and all. The composite stock did appear darker than the stainless barrel when finished but the offset in colors looks great.
If it holds up, I’m doing my Browning stainless a-bolt and glock.