Time to Up-armor… The Gas Tank

With the price of oil again pushing prices at the pump close to $4 a gallon, I’m thinking of the last time gas prices were this high in 2008 and gas theft was way up.

Some thieves didn’t bother cars with locking gas caps, while others didn’t even look at the caps and just put a hole in the bottom of the tank to drain it.

Gas prices will fluctuate but over the long-term they can only go higher, meaning such thefts are almost guaranteed to continue and increase. We drive 4WD vehicles that sit high off the ground, relatively easier to access the gas tank when compared to the average car. My insurance deductible is $500 and I’m not sure I’d want my rates to go up by making a claim, so my plan is target hardening; locking gas cap and some sort of protection or the tank. Parking in a secure garage or with the gas tank side up against a wall are not options right now.

Standard skid plates are available for some trucks but probably not for many cars. Also, many skid plates are made for protecting the tank from damage from rough terrain rather than preventing someone with a screwdriver or icepick from making a small hole. Sensors to detect gas tank molestation are also being marketed, but they are expensive and unproven.

I’m no veteran metal worker but have jerry-rigged a few minor projects, mostly with success. My plan is to fashion some sort of sheet metal, maybe diamond plate, to protect the tanks. This won’t stop a determined gas thief, but will deter the lazy ones or those with less time. Hopefully.

Why go to all the trouble? My guess is that in a situation where we need to bug out, fuel will be extremely tight and theft will be rampant. Ensuring we keep the fuel and prevent damage that could ground us is vital. So I think these precautions will be called for. I’ve only been thinking about this for a couple days and need to take a few photos before I decide what to do. Related ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.

Review: Midland 75-822 40-Channel CB Radio

It’s been awhile since I’ve had a substantive post. In November work, home life, and reserve duty converged in a perfect storm, followed by Christmas vacation during which I tried out a lot of equipment – look forward to several equipment reviews!

A couple months ago I purchased the Midland 75-822 40 Channel CB Radio as part of my bug out preparations. We have FRS/GRMS radios, also from Midland, but I wanted and additional bug out comms option with greater range. I was not against getting a regular CB radio, but didn’t really have space in my vehicle and didn’t want to entice thieves (this CB and antennae stowed in the toolbox).

After am initial checkout, I recommend this CB radio – it works, is compact, and doesn’t break the bank. The included antenna is virtually useless inside a vehicle without connecting to an external antenna, but all permanently mounted CBs also need an external antenna so I don’t see this as a negative. I used the Cobra HG A 1500 Magnet Mount 300W antenna with excellent results.

There are a few really nice features about this Midland portable CB. It comes with three power options; 12 VDC, AA batteries, and AA rechargeable batteries. The rechargeable battery option lets you plug-in an recharge the batteries. So you can use this while driving and use it outside a vehicle – versatile.

The CB comes with a small antenna that attaches to the top via standard BNC connector, and the Amazon site offers to sell you package with adapter to go from BNC to standard CB antenna connector. Don’t do it! It’s not needed, the Midland 12 VDC option include a dongle for a standard CB antenna, a very handy feature.

For the first test, I hooked up the radio with the included small BNC antenna and had it scan all 40 channels as I drove home from work. Didn’t pick up anything.

For the second test, I setup the Cobra antenna, which mounts to the middle of the roof of the vehicle via a magnetic mount. The cable wasn’t too thick, so I just ran it in through an open door and closed the door, no damage to the cable. Connected it directly to the CB and listened to clear conversations all the way home, about 15 miles. It just works.

If bugging out in a SHTF scenario, a CB could be useful in determining the best routes for your exfiltration. This Midland radio can also be used if you need to leave your bug out vehicle (Bov) – again, recommended.

Bug Out Navigation: Maps and GPS

Continuing the theme of bug out preparations, this is my navigational plan for traveling the 1,300 odd miles from where I’m living in Northern Virginia to my parents rural Nebraska farm, the “retreat,” should TEOTWAWKI occur.

As mentioned before, a map of population density by county is helpful for seeing how the eastern half of the U.S. is very densely populated. If things are getting chaotic while bugging out, Interstate highways and other main roads may not be clear, and detours could add a couple hundred more miles. Having a way of finding where you are and good maps is critical.

The best case is to just take Interstates most of the way and then take the local roads I know. If I recognized early on that it was time to bug out and only had a couple hundred miles to go, this would probably work just fine. But if late in leaving, and due to the time it would take to get there non-stop (about 22-24 hours, including pit stops), it’s unlikely the path will be that easy.

My main navigational aid while driving is a run-of-the-mill GPS. I have a Magellan but any inexpensive unit ought to do for basic navigation along main roads.

While these are GPS units are great for getting you from point A to point B after you’ve told it where to take you, with main roads potentially closed it’s perhaps better to put small segments of the overall trip in at a time so you can control your route and avoid potential bottlenecks, roadblocks, etc. Good maps of every state you might need to go through are called for.

Enter DeLorme. Most U.S. road atlases aren’t going to offer the level of back roads detail required, but DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteers do. These products regularly receive high marks from those who travel a lot, and are also called out in Bug Out by Scott Williams.

I used online mapping tools to identify the three most likely Interstate routes I would take, and purchased the Atlas & Gazetteer for each state I would or might pass through. At about $20 this came to nearly $300. I’m now in the process of using highlighters to clearly mark the Interstate routes I might take, and different colored highlighters to mark secondary highways, state roads, etc., for alternate routes.

This is time consuming and I won’t be done for awhile yet, but when done will provide me with all the maps I should need while bugging out, already marked (in plastic and stowed in my truck toolbox). If getting off main routes, I would enter segments from my maps for the GPS to guide me. Some GPS units can route multi-point trips as well.

Some GPS units also require a street address (or GPS coordinates) for the destination. To make this process faster, I plan on finding specific addresses (perhaps gas stations, sporting goods stores, etc.) and putting them on Post-It notes in the maps along the routes highlighted. Planning now will make things smoother then.

While those maps are outstanding, should my family and I have to abandon our Bug Out Vehicle (BoV) for any reason, I probably could not carry those paper maps due to space and weight constraints. And a GPS for vehicle navigation would require recharging soon, aside from not having the detail needed. Bugging out on foot is definitely something to avoid, but if it is necessary we will need to navigate (map and compass are nice, but probably not most useful in our case).

I’ve opted for another DeLorme product; the Earthmate PN-60 GPS. Look for it on sale around $300-350 – well worth it.

The PN-60 gets high marks for being rugged and a good battery life (much improved from the PN-40, which I upgraded from), but the primary reason I chose this GPS is that DeLorme includes DVDs with coverage of all of North America.

The 3.5GB of built-in storage isn’t enough for all the states I need to add, but it can also take an SD card of up to 32GB, which will take all the maps included. These are the same detailed maps as the Atlas & Gazetteer series, but on the GPS. With a yearly subscription of $30 you can download additional maps for the PN-60 (or any PN series GPS), including satellite imagery.

Even if you live in or very near your retreat, a bug out plan is needed in the event that location has to be vacated, for whatever reason. Having good local maps and a backup GPS is something I recommend.

The Bug out Plan – a Work in Progress

As I’ve mentioned a few times, my family and I currently reside in Northern Virginia. Should TEOTWAWKI occur while we’re here, the plan is to bug out to my parents’ farm in rural Nebraska, along with my brothers and a few other family members or close friends. It’s not and ideal plan, but until we can move closer it’s the de facto plan.

Depending on the route, it’s about 1,300 miles, and as the map of population density by county depicts, the eastern half of the U.S. is very densely populated. If things are getting chaotic, detours could add a couple hundred more miles.

Probably a lot of people feel like they’re out in the boonies in some places in the eastern half of the U.S., but the reality is there are large population centers nearby in all directions (unless you’re on the coast – or in Maine). Most of the eastern U.S. would be a nightmare in a total collapse SHTF scenario – without our full-up, just-in-time delivery infrastructure and utilities, these urban and suburban areas will quickly disintegrate into chaos (WROL – without rule of law).

There are a lot of variables that go into a bug out plan and I don’t think it’s realistic to create dozens of detailed plans covering every conceivable scenario. Instead, I’ve focused on the main, essential areas: transportation (BoV, plans for going without); route planning (maps and GPS); and materials (food, firearms, radios, etc.).

The question of an EMP attack bothers me as there is conflicting information as to how dangerous they actually are. However, in my specific situation, I don’t think investing in a pre-1980s, EMP-proof vehicle would be prudent since having a working vehicle in an urban area makes you a great big target. Instead of blending in with the masses on foot or bicycles, it’s like shouting, “here I am!”

If there is an EMP and most vehicles work, great (power and comms likely would not). Or, if there is an EMP and most vehicles don’t work, we’ll have to deal with it; much less (little?) chance of survival in that scenario, depending on the time of year. But the way, I see it, bugging-in along the east coast as pretty much suicide, unless you’re prepared to kill a lot of innocents to survive, and probably resort to cannibalism (strictly speaking of a full TEOTWAWKI situating, of course). Better to bug out.

Bugging Out By Vehicle
Leaving in our Bug out Vehicle (BoV) is obviously preferred. If we could leave as things are getting strange but before they fall apart, well that would be ideal. And unlikely. So I’ve been studying back roads, alleys, and alternate routes in my local area so as to avoid the worst of the traffic crush should there be a mass exodus. Good local maps are a must for this, and as I travel to nearby counties I try to find maps there as well. A national road atlas is also a must.

I’ve already determined what I think I need in a BoV, and how I want to prepare it. I currently have a sufficient vehicle and a good backup. The main concern is fuel – I need more than I have here.

To get where I want to go, I’ll need approximately 90 gallons of gasoline (using 1,300 miles and my approximate gas mileage). If detours are significant and traffic jams many, call it 100+ gallons. My tank is about 25 gallons, so I’d need three good refills to make it.

I have a few cans of gas here, but not enough. Assuming some stations are open, my plan is to fill up as often as possible, buying and filling more cans along the way as possible. In case credit isn’t being accepted or the price of fuel skyrockets, I have a large stash of cash for just such an event. If I have to pay $50 a gallon, I’ll still get home. Having a large amount of cash on hand may be vital in the beginning stages of a collapse or other critical event.

The amount of time available to pack will determine the load. Again it’s obvious that more time is better. After thinking it through, I estimate can fully load the vehicle in about two hours, maybe a little less. (If time was critical, I’d need about five minutes to grab the BoB, food, water, and firearms.) In my case, that’s a truck. I have lockable toolbox for the most critical items, and a cardboard tri-wall container to put in the back and load up.

All items that have a long-term survival value will be taken with us; firearms, ammo, food/water, survival books, clothing, blankets, clothing, shoes, etc. These items will go along the sides of the tri-wall – if they need to be removed quickly, a box knife will help liberate them.

As part of my denial and deception campaign, for those who evaluate me as a target to attempt to loot, the last items to be loaded, and the most visible, will be frivolous; children’s toys, clothes in clear bags, perhaps a garden rake and water hose, etc. The goal is to look like an unworthy target to help avoid confrontation. Along that line, the BoB will be in the front seat of the cab, but covered with a children’s blanket, perhaps with a few toys visible.

If someone still wants to attempt to loot us, they’d find out what caliber is hidden underneath the baby blanket. I’d rather avoid confrontation, but will shoot first and ask questions later if threatened.

If there was some sort of terrorist event or large-scale disaster, natural or man-made, it may determine our route out of the DC area. For example, we may need to detour significantly north our south before proceeding west by northwest to Nebraska. Because of this, having a capable GPS with up-to-date maps is critical. Having a multi-band radio to get the most current information is also important.

Bugging Out On Foot
If we encounter a massive traffic jam that cannot be escaped, or if the truck breaks down and cannot be repaired, we’d have to continue on foot. If we can’t leave the DC area by BoV, we might have to do the entire trip on foot, perhaps on bicycles, but using a jogging stroller/bike trailer in any case. The stroller would carry our children and much of the supplies we’d take in this specific case.

My wife and I would still need to wear packs. And we would both be well armed. We have a hiking GPS, shortwave radio, and two-way GMRS/FRS radios in what I hope is a functioning Faraday cage.

Going on foot from the DC area to Nebraska would take two months or more in good times for a fit man unencumbered by two very small children. If we could make 10 miles a day, it would be over four months (more if winter was near). At five miles a day, nearly nine months. Chances of all four of us making it, very low. I don’t know how low and can’t assign a realistic percentage.

In general, the plan would be to navigate away from the most populated areas, seeking secondary roads, steering towards Nebraska the entire time. Monitoring the SW radio would be key for avoiding the most chaotic areas, blocked roads, etc. The GPS already has up-to-date road maps uploaded for all states we’d possibly transit. The BoB has a supply of batteries, but I’ll likely be adding more soon.

My BoB gear is really provisioned for the longer term with this scenario in mind, and we would have basic shelter. We would have weapons appropriate for both defense and hunting. If we had to stop for a few weeks or winter over someplace, we both have skills that might help us gain acceptance, especially my wife’s medical profession.

A Work in Progress
This is a basic plan that is always being fine tuned, and I’ve probably forgotten a few important details. New streets found, new maps added, gear being swapped out, and so on. When we eventually move, the plan will be greatly simplified by the much shorter distance we’d have to travel.

Even so, I’m always seeking gear (at a reasonable price) that will help with bugging out, adding maps, and thinking about what I’d need to do for different situations. Something to think about while at red lights.

Even if you live in your retreat, I think having a backup bug out plan is essential, so my brothers and I are also thinking about where we would go if our farm became an nonviable option.

As Ben Franklin said, “God helps those who help themselves” – being prepared to evacuate is the beginning.

Bug Out Vehicle Backups: Jogging Strollers and Bike Trailers

In response to an article about Bug out Bags (BoB) at Survival Blog, an elderly reader recently wrote in to say that carrying a properly stocked BoB was physically beyond what he and his wife could now do. Instead, they plan to use a garden cart, which can generally haul several hundred pounds, to carry their gear. As the reader notes, roads would be ideal, open level ground so-so, and most other types of terrain difficult or impossible.

I’ve also considered different types of carts for use in a bug out situation as a backup for when the BoV (and here) either breaks down or, more likely, can’t get past massive traffic jams. Then how to carry a massive BoB for potentially the next few weeks or even months?

Initially I’d planned on taking our run-of-the-mill Graco stroller, which could hold one or two children, depending on their size, and some gear. But the small wheels on most normal strollers would be near useless on anything but paved surfaces – impractical for a bug out situation. Then I considered some double strollers and finally double jogging strollers, some of which can also be used as bike trailers.

Advantages: Jogging strollers normally have bicycle type wheels/tires that roll extremely smoothly over paved or level surfaces, and very well over even somewhat rough terrain, if going slowly – much better than a garden cart. A double will carry up to two children and/or a combination of gear, and usually has some sort of weather protection. Most fold and are light relative to a garden cart, which is an advantage when having to cross fences and similar obstacles.

Disadvantages: The advertised weight limit for most double jogging strollers/bike trailers is 100 pounds. Modifications to the stroller/trailer might not allow for more weight since the limit may be due to how the wheels attach. The well rolling but light wheels will be more easily damaged that those of a garden cart (i.e. hitting rocks or holes). While there are some bargains, these strollers and trailers can be expensive.

I ended up getting something a couple of steps away from the top end, but still very high quality (doesn’t come cheap) that we’ve been happy with. Since getting a stroller/trailer combo, I’ve used my bike more in the past few weeks than the previous several years as the kids love riding in it!

It’s a good solution for us; the stroller/trailer will go with us, and should we need to leave our BoV for any reason, the stroller/trailer will carry our two children and some gear. This will allow us to move faster and over more diverse terrain, and reduce the amount we’ll need to carry on our backs.

Siphoning Gas From Newer Vehicles

On the post, Bug out Vehicle (BoV) Outfitting, commenter slow crash noted that newer vehicles have screens to prevent gas from being siphoned. For some context, the comment was in response to my plan to potentially take the fuel from one vehicle to add to the other in a bug out situation.

With some never vehicles there is a block rather than a screen, and a smaller diamerter tube can pass through. I’d pass on the electirc drill, but this might work (note: due to language, not safe for work or kids):

Bug out Vehicle (BoV) Outfitting

This post is a follow up to Thinking Through Bug Out Vehicles, and covers some of the items that should normally be kept in vehicles, as well as some recommendations for what to take when bugging out.

While some of what I suggest will be applicable to everyone, my writing is geared towards those in suburban and urban areas that need to relocate to someplace several hundred miles away.

As a recap from the preceding post, there are basically three “schools of thought” (PDF) in regard to BoV:

1. A pre-1980s, electromagnetic pulse (EMP)-proof truck or SUV – less electronics, more rugged, can stand the test of time
2. A late model SUV or truck – no evidence older vehicles are EMP-proof, newer vehicles get better mileage and are more comfortable
3. Whatever you have – not everyone can afford a BoV, so plan to go in the vehicle you have

My recommendation is a modern SUV or 4×4 truck, since they are more reliable, get better mileage, are safer, and are more comfortable. Also, if in an EMP attack scenario, having an older, functional vehicle in a suburban or urban area will make you a huge target, though such vehicles are preferable if you live at your retreat or only a short distance away. If you’re financially limited and don’t have an SUV or truck, these suggestion will still mostly apply.

Maintenance: Make sure you get the oil changed regularly, rotate the tires, replace various filters, have belts and hoses checked, top off the fluids, check tire air pressure, get your regularly scheduled maintenance, and so on. If in an urban/suburban environment or if you’re in a lot of stop-and-go traffic, I suggest you pay special attention to your breaks, as in my experience, they need replacement fairly frequently. These are the basic things to make sure your vehicle is running smoothly and will take you to your retreat, or at least away from the chaos of urban areas.

Fuel: Half a tank is the new empty – fill up when half your fuel is gone! If you have two vehicles, you’ll have at least a full (or nearly) between the two – but you’ll need to siphon the fuel, so have an appropriate tube or device to do so. Since this is geared towards a mid-to-long range bug out, you should also have several gas cans ready to go. How many do? Probably very few. I only have a few, not enough for the 1,300 mile trip I’ll need to take, but some is better than none. If possible, fill up often en route. Something I’m looking for are 20 gallon fuel drums; if I find some I’ll post a link.

Basic tools & spare parts: If you’re like me, and most people, you’re not going to be able to do any major repairs on your vehicle, so having a comprehensive toolbox probably isn’t required. But some basic tools should be carried at all time; pliers, a crescent wrench, a ratchet set, wire cutters, screw drivers, electrical tape, duct tape, jumper cables, etc. I also suggest you have spare fuses, bulbs, hoses, a spare tire (or two), belts, a tow rope or chain, and a hitch. Snow chains if you need them (you’ll know if you do). You probably won’t need these while bugging out, but you might and they’ll be useful later regardless. It’s really a minimal investment and priceless if you need them while escaping the urban/suburban landscape.

Extras for bugging out: Some items that you might need when rolling; a shovel, an ax and had saw for tree across the road (or a chainsaw), a winch (electric or hand operation – for getting yourself unstuck). A 12VCD air compressor, and perhaps a few cans of Fix-a-Flat. A hitch mount cargo carrier for whatever won’t fit in the main vehicle (put the nice-to-have items in the trailer, but not what you must have in-case you need to lose the trailer). If you’re leaving a vehicle behind, take the fuel and battery if possible. A tow bar for bringing extra vehicles, a trailer for extra cargo, and a utility or cargo trailer for bringing extra gear.

Modifications: Dual fuel tanks would be high on the list if they’ fit, a brush guard to protect headlights and grill, and a 2” hitch if you don’t already have one. Luggage racks are also nice since all sorts of items can be lashed to them. A vehicle mounted CB and power inverter (12VCD to 120VAC) would be nice additions.

These are the basic things to take care of, and I probably will add to this post over time as I think things through more thoroughly and reconsider.

Thinking Through Bug Out Vehicles (BoV)

Basically, if you don’t have a Hummer H1 Alpha with a Duramax Diesel and 5-speed Allison transmission, magnesium-aluminum alloy or rubber inserts tires, and chemical warfare resistant paint, your bug out vehicle (BoV) is inadequate and will not save you. Just kidding.

I live in the DC Metro area. I’m planning on moving west, but it’s not exactly the best time for job hunting. If TSHTF before I’m able to move my family far from the east coast, we’ll have to Get Out Of Dodge (G.O.O.D.) in a BoV.

If you also live in an urban or suburban area, you should consider the types of vehicles that will best suit your evacuation. How far do you need to go? What sort of terrain? What seasonal variations need to be considered? Will it all be paved? Or will you need to go off road? How many passengers and how much cargo will you need to carry? These are all primary considerations.

Even if you live at a rural retreat you should have a backup plan that includes a BoV.

My scenario remains the same; leave the DC area – northern Virginia – for my parent’s farm in Nebraska, which will serve as a retreat for my brothers and I, and potentially other family members as well.

My wife, two toddlers, and I will need to travel about 1,300-1,400 miles, depending on the route. I’m not overly optimistic about the odds of survival, especially if our departure is delayed, but the only alternative is to plan to die – unacceptable. So this is a topic I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about.

An article from the Survivalist Site on Bug Out Vehicle Basics nicely sums up the three “schools of thought” when it comes to BoVs;

1. A pre-1980s, electromagnetic pulse (EMP)-proof truck or SUV – less electronics, more rugged, can stand the test of time
2. A late model SUV or truck – no evidence older vehicles are EMP-proof, newer vehicles get better mileage and are more comfortable
3. Whatever you have – not everyone can afford a BoV, so plan to go in the vehicle you have

Option 1 – pre-1980s. My brothers and I are considering purchasing such a vehicle for our retreat, especially a 4×4 diesel. These trucks are generally only a few thousand dollars – a bit more if/when restored – and a just plain classy to boot. I would opt for this if I had only a short distance to travel. But I have ruled such a BoV out for my potential 1,300+ mile evacuation for several reasons.

First, if there is an EMP and my vehicle is operational, I’ve just made myself a primary target for both bad guys and the authorities. In the 2005 version of War of the Worlds, Tom Cruise has his family in an operational car, and attempts to drive through crowds with it. The result is predictable – it is violently taken from him and puts his family in danger. Second, in the book One Second After, local authorities confiscated working vehicles, at gunpoint if they needed to. Third, these older vehicle usually get worse mileage than modern vehicles, which is very important if you plan on carrying your fuel supply as I do.

It just seems obvious that traveling a great distance in a scarce resource – a working vehicle in a post-EMP scenario – is a very bad idea. It draws attention and makes you a target by both the bad guys and the good guys. On the other hand, if your vehicle is at your retreat, it’s highly advisable to have a one likely capable of withstanding an EMP attack.

Option 2 – a modern SUV or truck. This is my choice for a long-distance evacuation. Modern vehicles are safer (airbags, etc.), generally get better mileage, and are much more comfortable. A truck or SUV will depend on your specific circumstances – how many people, what sort of cargo, etc.

Personally, I prefer a quad-cab 4×4 truck with a V8 engine. I need the internal space for the family and gear, while the bed can be loaded with a lot more gear and is preferable for carrying fuel. This is the sort of vehicle I have, on purpose. It’s a mid-2000s model purchased used and very well maintained since then.

I happen to have a sturdy cardboard tri-wall container that fits in the back of my truck and will assist in getting more loaded securely. You might also consider a bed cover to get more in. I also recommend a hitch mount cargo carrier for either a truck or SUV, but it’s pretty much essential for an SUV for carrying fuel outside the passenger compartment.

There are two other features I find important; sitting high enough to see over other vehicles, and being able to accelerate. Having a large truck can be inconvenient in a suburban or urban environment for parking, but on the road it’s nice to be able to see over other vehicles and anticipate what you need to do.

While a V8 is less fuel efficient, being able to accelerate and outrun other vehicles could be essential in a bug out situation – running away is better than fighting when your kids are along for the ride. As always, it depends on your specific circumstances.

As a backup, we also have a mid-sized SUV – a mid-2000s Nissan Xterra. The Xterra is comparable to the Ford Escape. Gas mileage is not very good for a six-cylinder, but it is capable off-road or in snow, as we recently saw in the DC area. Unlike quad-cab trucks, the Xterra can turn on a dime.

Most SUVs in this class have cargo racks on top, and can have a two-inch hitch installed – important for the cargo carrier mentioned above. If we cannot take the truck, the Xterra will be tight but acceptable. It will carry less cargo and fuel, but get better mileage.

If you’re buying specifically with bugging out in mind and have a moderate to long distance to travel, consider having a second fuel tank installed.

Option 3 – whatever you have. If TSHTF and you have a Camry, that’s what you’ll have to go in, unless you can go with someone with a more suitable vehicle. Again, if you have a short distance to go and little to carry, this might be ideal due to mileage. For my baseline scenario, it would probably be a disaster, which is why “whatever” I have is a truck and SUV.

If you are concerned about the possibility of having to bug out and you have a significant distance to travel, I strongly suggest looking into a used truck or SUV. With modern vehicles, high miles need not mean it’s on its last legs. Have a mechanic look at if before purchasing, and keep it well maintained; oil changes, tires, tune-ups, etc.

In my experience, the item an urban or suburban vehicle needs most attention paid to is brakes. Stop and go traffic is hell on brakes. Keep spare hoses and belts, but make sure your brakes are up to par.

I’m basically for all three options depending on the situation; an older vehicle for the retreat BoV; a modern vehicle for a long-range BoV, and making sure the “whatever you have” is a truck or SUV.

Consider your situation, what you’ll need, and purchase accordingly. If your budget is tight, consider what your vehicle is capable of carrying and prioritize from there. Good luck!

Power Inverters for Your Vehicle – Lessons Learned

I’ve always thought it was important to have portable power inverters for our vehicles, the type that plug into a 12 VDC cigarette lighter type outlet and provide 100-120 VAC power. In a G.O.O.D. situation, or just using power tools in the woods, their utility is great. For any prepper, they are essential gear.

Several months ago while in Wal-Mart I picked up a Black and Decker 400W PI400AB inverter that came with a cable for 12 VDC outlets in the vehicle as well as a cable to attach directly to the vehicle battery.

If you follow the link to Amazon and check out the ratings, you can tell I didn’t check out the ratings before buying. True to those ratings, the B&D PI400AB did not perform well.

When you buy a power inverter rated over 100 Watts, in most cases to get the higher power output it will need to be wired directly to the vehicle battery. 12 VDC outlets usually have a fuse that prevents more power from going through them.

The B&D 400W inverter was rated to only 80W via my trucks internal 12 VDC outlet – but my laptop with dead batter pulled about 90W while on a roadtrip where I needed it. The inverter was supposed to just show a fault and shut down, but then work (reset) when attached to the battery with a lower load. But pulling 90W pretty much killed it. [Update: Attempting to contact B&D warranty/repair is practically useless - I'll just have to write off this $45 as completely wasted. I strongly recommend against any B&D products since warranty/repair is near impossible.]

I did some research and purchased a Sears DieHard 400W inverter. The reviews were good, and in fact it worked like a champ. It has a display that shows exactly how much power is being pulled by what’s plugged in, and is able to go up to 120W without being wired to the battery.

The only thing I don’t like about the DieHard inverter is that the air intake is on the bottom, so it needs to be set so it can get air. I solved this with some double-sided tape and two pieces of wood trim.

I prefer no to wire it in, but if more power is needed on a camping trip, etc., it’s easy enough to pop the hood and connect directly to the battery with the included cable with battery clips.

Two lessons learned; 1) check reviews first, and 2) wire it up for full performance, if needed. Although I picked up a 400W model, probably a 750W or more would be a good idea for a survival scenario.